Chesler Park and Druid Arch

In June 2005, I organized a trip with my in-laws to Chesler Park in Canyonlands National Park. We arrived at the trailhead with a blanket of grey clouds and a steady drizzle. We sat in the car for about an hour hoping for a change of weather, but it just wasn't in the cards. Resigned to our eventual wetness, we strapped on our packs and headed out through the falling rain.

As we passed Elephant Hill, the first phalanx of sandstone needles edged into view through the mist. Each at least 100 feet high, the needles seemed to hunch together uncomfortably in the mist. The already otherworldly landscape was rendered even more alien by the reduced visibility and rain-slicked sandstone. The strange beauty of the place quickly vaporized my concerns about the weather.

We hiked for three hours through steady rain. We forded rushing streams that would cease to exist in less than a day's time. We passed under waterfalls and climbed tier after tier of dripping Navajo Sandstone. When we reached Chesler Park, we all felt partially frozen. Since fires aren't allowed in the park boundaries, I ended up trying to get warm by huddling over our 3 oz. canister stove along with my two sisters-in-law. It didn't help that I had forgotten to bring any sort of rain gear. Spirits were high though, and the clouds broke just in time for a spectacular sunset. We set out to explore the park with the remaining light and discovered yet another unforeseen advantage of the rain: we had the whole park to ourselves.

The next day we rose early in order to see Druid Arch before breaking camp and departing. We hiked all morning through Elephant Canyon before scrambling up the final ascent to the Druid Arch viewpoint. Druid Arch may not be the largest arch in Utah, but when you're standing there with your neck craned back to see it, it might as well be. The huge mass of rock seems to float above the canyon walls. Pictures can't capture the way Druid Arch dominates the canyon. The hike out didn't take nearly as long as the hike in, but since the sun was out, it was about 30 degrees warmer. I highly recommend spring or fall for Canyonlands, rather than battling it out in the summer heat.

Getting There

Follow US Highway 191 about 37 miles south of Moab. Turn west onto Utah Highway 211 and follow it for roughly 35 miles until you reach the Canyonlands National Park visitor center. Highway 211 is the only paved road that leads into and out of the Needles District. Check in at the visitor center and pick up backcountry permits, if necessary. Continue along the road past Squaw Flat Campground, until it dead-ends at the Elephant Hill Trailhead, almost 40 miles from the Highway 211 turnoff.

Permits are required for overnight camping anywhere within the Park's backcountry. Visit the Canyonlands National Park website for details. During the spring and fall, permits should be requested at least a month in advance in order to get a spot. While hiking in the Park, remember to stay on trails so you don't damage the fragile cryptobiotic crust.

GPS Coordinates

Elephant Hill Trailhead: 38.1412° N 109.8272° W
Chesler Park: 38.1059° N 109.8500° W