South Range Creek

Range Creek winds down a remote canyon just above the Book Cliffs in Eastern Utah. My brother and I decided to explore the area, since we'd never been up past the Book Cliffs before. Access to the canyon was sketchy; it took several hours driving on lonely, jaw-rattling dirt roads before we found access. The first road we tried was buried in yet-unmelted snow, so we were forced to improvise and find another way in.

Driving around on top of the Book Cliffs in my brother’s 1980 Toyota Pickup, we passed mile upon mile of high desert just begging to be explored. Its big country out there, with lots of possibilities. Watching it all pass by the window just made me wish I had a few months to spend up there, instead of a few hours.

After finally finding our way into Range Creek, we spent about half the day hiking over boulders and through washes in the canyon. We had to pick our way around a fair amount of cryptobiotic soil. We happened to hit the desert just in time for wildflower season. Sego lilies, purple locoweed, and red indian paintbrush bloomed all across the canyon.

The crowning moment of the day was finding a rock art panel high on the side of the canyon. My brother was ahead of me when he reached a small ledge and turned around, declaring that this would be a perfect spot to find some pictographs. Not quite believing what I saw, I pointed behind him and said, “Dude, there’s pictographs right behind you!" Due to the panel's precarious location and difficult access, we may have been the first people to lay eyes on it since the Fremont Indians vacated the area.

There were about 15 figures painted on the rock. Many had faded beyond recognition. In some places the rock had long since flaked away. The pale greenish-yellow substance used by the artists typifies a rarer form of pictograph painting. Usually the artists used a red pigment or chiseled through the desert varnish into the pale rock beneath.

The image’s splayed fingers and toes, along with the horned head, indicate that this was probably painted by the Fremont Indians sometime between 700 and 1200 A.D. As we climbed and scoured the surrounding rocks for more pictographs, I kept trying to imagine what it must have been like to live there over a thousand years ago, scraping a living out of the dry desert clay. We became so absorbed in looking for more pictographs that we ended up hiking out in the dark.

On the way out we crossed a small table-like land formation about halfway down the side of the canyon. Right in the middle, we found a suspiciously circular jumble of rocks—a Fremont pit house. Unfortunately the day's light was already failing, so we didn't get a good look. It will have to remain a mystery.

There are many more archeological sites scattered across this canyon. Ever since our trip, I've been kicking myself that we didn’t plan more time for looking around. According to archeologists, the Fremont were rather fond of this area. I can’t blame them. With its tall but relatively accessible cliffs, quiet, shady feeder canyons, and green river bottom, this canyon is captivating.

Getting There

Access to Range Creek Canyon is tightly regulated by the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources. Camping is not allowed beyond the access gate. To hike inside the canyon, you must purchase a permit prior to visiting. They are not available at the gate or inside the canyon. Only 28 people per day are allowed inside the canyon. Permits cost 5 dollars per person per day, for up to 5 consecutive days total. Many of the surrounding canyons and land are privately owned, so watch where you go and respect all posted signs.

To get there, follow US Highway 191 south from Price for roughly 30 miles until you reach Utah Highway 124, a small paved turnoff heading east towards Horse Canyon. Follow Highway 124 as it winds up Little Horse Canyon for about 14 miles. Turn south into Range Creek Canyon and follow the road until you reach the gate.

GPS Coordinates

Wilcox Ranch: 39.3578° N 110.1295° W